Coffees, Cocktails, and Conversations

In early June of 1993, I touched down at Charles de Gaulle Airport, armed with two suitcases, a basic grasp of French, and a heady mix of nerves and excitement for the adventure ahead. As the cab driver navigated down Boulevard Montparnasse, he told me tales of our neighborhood's storied past, a veritable playground for the most illustrious writers, artists, and thinkers of the 20th century. This was this very neighborhood where Hemingway once socialized and penned literature that would become timeless classics.

A mere five-minute stroll from my apartment stood La Coupole, a legendary haunt of Jean-Paul Sartre and his partner, the feminist icon Simone de Beauvoir. I could almost see them seated around a round table, discussing existentialism and politics over cocktails, seafood, and coffee. Picasso and Matisse also frequented this restaurant, often paying their bills with art instead of money. Today, their works adorn the walls, blending perfectly with the Art Nouveau decor.

In the same neighborhood, you can also dine at Le Dôme, La Rotonde, and La Closerie des Lilas—beloved spots of Josephine Baker, Modigliani, Fitzgerald, and Diego Rivera. These establishments once buzzed with the creative energy of some of the era's brightest minds.

My very first coffee of my life was sipped at La Closerie des Lilas in the company of my French roommate Emi. Emi introduced me to this iconic cafe, pointing out the brass nameplates on tables that marked the favored seats of luminaries. Sitting at the Picasso table, I ordered the cheapest item on the menu—coffee. Over the tiniest cup of coffee I had ever seen, I tackled schoolwork, discussed my week, and engaged in philosophical musings with Emi that would have made Sartre proud.

For my 21st birthday, my American roommates took me to La Coupole for my first real cocktail that year. As I savored the drink, I reflected on the famous figures who had once roamed these streets, leaving an indelible mark on the world. I hoped that one day, someone might feel the same way about me.

This past January, Emi and I reunited in our old neighborhood at La Coupole for drinks before heading across the street to Le Relais de l'Entrecôte for dinner. (For more on dinner, see my blog post “Steak-frites à volonté? Avec plaisir!”) Once again, the charm of a French café sparked some of the most profound conversations I've had in years. Instead of dreaming about our future selves and what would be, we discussed our marriages, our children, the empowerment of women and facing midlife with grace, style, and humor. I believe that 21-year-old Beth would be proud of where 52-year-old Beth has arrived and where she is headed.:)

If you ever find yourself in the Montparnasse neighborhood, take a moment to soak in the energy of the roaring twenties. Enjoy a cocktail or perhaps the tiniest cup of coffee, and you might just discover a piece of yourself you never knew existed.